Once we arrived in Cognac, we were bussed to the Marnier-Lapostolle estate, where we enjoyed refreshments in the salon. After greetings from the Grand Marnier team, we were off to a local cooperage to view the process of barrel making from start to finish. It was incredible to see in person – the trees cut into shape, wood planks steamed for pliability, iron rings hammered into place by hand, barrels toasting in their individual stalls - it gave us all some perspective on why barrels (and the fluids ageing in them) are so expensive. As soon as our stomach’s began to rumble, we were headed back to Grand Marnier for lunch, complete with a goat cheese and roasted pepper appetizer to start, chicken in cognac sauce with wild rice for our entrée and a creme brulee topped cookie with chocolate and caramel sauce that was to die for as dessert. 

Following lunch and a very special tasting, we were spirited off to our respective homes for the next two nights. The majority of our group stayed at a very quaint hotel close to town, while a select few, including myself, were treated to a very special stay at the Hennessy estate, Chateau de Bagnolet. Located on the Charente River, the home is surrounded by lush gardens and grassy expanses. The house itself is grand without being ostentatious and is even more comfortable than a country home should be. Though we did not wish to leave, we were delighted to be returning to the Marnier-Lapostolle estate to enjoy yet another fabulous evening of cocktails and culinary delights. From the reception in the courtyard to the after dinner drinks in the drawing-room, our hosts were more than generous. It was a magical night, only enhanced by our cohort’s companionship and the darling vineyard dog we made friends with.

The next morning arrived with full sunshine and the promise of yet another phenomenal day. Our first stop was at one of Hennessy’s production and research facilities, where we toured the vineyards and enjoyed what was collectively lauded as one of our favorite meals of the week, consisting of fresh gazpacho with lobster claw, terrines of chicken with truffles and seafood with spring vegetables, pistachio puree, a selection of cheeses and local wines.  Appetites sated, we were taken back to town for an extensive tour at Hennessy beginning in the main visitor’s building, then across the river in a boat to the cellars where the cognacs are aged, where we were privileged enough to be taken into cellars holding cognacs dating back to 1800. Our visit was completed with a special blending session in which we all created our very own assemblage to take home with us.

That night we were entertained at Chateau de Bagnolet – a grand finale to a grand week in France. Hennessy cocktails were served on the veranda, including my new favorite drink of VSOP and fresh, unpasteurized apple juice on the rocks. As the sun set, dinner was served and devoured with relish, a feast created by the Chef de Cuisine at Hennessy, who had been planning and preparing our meal for five days. The mood was celebratory, the food was delicious and the night could not have left us with better memories. 

Back in Paris before our long flights home, we reminisced about the enchanted week we were able to share. It was truly a once in a lifetime experience and I will be forever grateful to all the maisons for such a wonderful odyssey through France.

Glowing from sleep and great Champagne, we all gathered on our bus to head to Clicquot. We met our guide in the main lobby of the maison and proceeded with the tour, which included a history of the house and collected memorabilia, as well as a trek through the caves. As with both Moët and Ruinart, Clicquot’s caves were utilized during the wars for shelter and daily life. One thing that Clicquot has that the others do not is a giant bas-relief sculpture created by Andre Navlet of a lady with a large bottle of Clicquot in hand and a young boy wrapped in grape vines in tow. It is remarkable in both its beauty and its immensity. Another great feature of the crayeres are the steps that showcase each of the vintage years at Clicquot. The steps are simple, yet offer a powerful visual connecting present-day Clicquot to all the years past.

Of my entire experience at the maison, the base wine tasting with a member of the blending team at Clicquot is an experience I will never forget. When people ask me why Champagne is so expensive and suggest that the large Champagne houses are of lesser quality than grower Champagnes, my mind will always return to the image of several winemakers tasting hundreds of still wines to create the famous yellow label of Veuve Clicquot. These wines are not wines for everyday drinking – they are acidic and unblended, lacking in the qualities most people would consider proper for consumption. The winemakers on the blending team are tasked to create a base for the Champagne with these wines, many of which have been ageing in the crayeres for some time. They all must agree on the final assemblage in order to develop the final product. And this is just for the Yellow Label! As all four of the maisons mentioned during our visit, the hardest work often goes into the non-vintage, which is actually a multi-vintage, created from wines from several harvests. After the base wine evaluation, we opened a magnum of Clicquot to toast to our visit and, in my eyes, to the Champenois who created the glorious bubbles we drink today.

Leaving Clicquot, we had a few hours to ourselves for the first time in days, a treat on trips such as these. The afternoon was glorious with beautiful May sunshine, espresso on the patio of a bustling bistro, and lunch at Cafe du Palais. Following lunch, we all chose our own little groups and headed out to experience the city. Much of my day was spent smoking gauloises (when in France!) and sipping espresso and Leffe on a sidewalk patio in the center of Reims. Little dogs, young couples and children passed by the large fountain in the courtyard, all basking in the glow of the sun. If not for the scheduled dinner, I could have stayed in the cafe through the evening and been thoroughly entertained the entire time.

That night, we transferred to Verzy for a very special dinner at the Clicquot country house. It was our last dinner in Champagne and it was delicious. Even better was the experience of being in such a historic home built for entertaining guests of the Clicquot family. Drinking bubbles in the midst of Champagne vineyards, I promised myself I would return soon.

Upon arrival at Ruinart , we were greeted by Julie, our darling Belgian host, and taken down the steep steps into the crayéres owned by the maison. The chalk mines were once used to create the beautiful churches and cathedrals of the country, as well as other architectural sites, and now are home to many bottles of phenomenal Champagne. Interestingly, many of the caves took well over 500 years to be fully developed and there are demarcation lines along the walls marking the progress of the stoneworkers, giving a glimpse of the different periods of labor in the mines. We were taken first to a cave of 10 stories beneath the city and then down into a space double that depth – it was incredible to imagine not only the work that had been put into the crayéres, but the fact that during the World Wars people actually lived their daily lives in these caves. I can only hope that the Champagne helped to boost their spirits.

Moving back up into the maison, we were introduced to Frédéric Panatios, winemaker at Ruinart, and led through a tasting of the wines. It was a very informal experience, with all of us sitting and enjoying the Champagne on chairs and sofas in the salon. If it were not for the scheduled itinerary, I could imagine myself at a friend’s home sipping bubbles and delighting in conversation about business and wine and so on. Well … until the beautiful bottle of 1990 Dom Ruinart Rosé was opened by Frédéric and we had the pleasure of imbibing before our imminent departure. Alas, it was time to move on and as we thanked Frédéric and Julie, we promised to sell a lot of Ruinart once back in the states – so, friends, buy a bottle or a few and enjoy! It is truly a treat and the nectar of the gods.

Off we were to lunch at Brasserie du Boulingrin, a fantastic little restaurant in town where several of us were able to sample oysters at the outdoor stand before our more formal lunch indoors. The crisp spring air and the oysters mixed wonderfully and our experience was enhanced by the wonderful gentleman serving our briny friends – he was enchanted with Jane, our beautiful companion, making the experience even more of a treat. Indoors we dined on more oysters (yum!), then a country-style dish prepared with sliced leg of lamb on white beans in sauce, followed by yet more fromages. I hesitate to say this was one of my favorite meals only because there were so many favorites.

Satisfied by our fantastic lunch, we took our short walk to Krug. As always with Krug, I was blind-sided by the simplicity and the grandeur, seemingly opposing characteristics. Here at one of the most coveted Champagne houses in the region, we entered a very austere courtyard (by French standards) and ushered into the main tasting room for a flute of Grande Cuvee. The light from the courtyard cast a glow on the room and warmed us as we crossed into the barrel room and to the humid cellars. Inside the main winemaking facility, we were introduced to the many techniques used at Krug, from the barrel fermentation, to the stainless tanks used for ageing, and finally, the bottles stored for drinking later this decade or longer.

Back up to ground level, we were taken through a tasting of Grande Cuvee, Vintage and Clos d’Mesnil by Olivier Krug, in that order. Most houses will do the tasting in the opposite way, but given that Krug Grande Cuvee is a multi-vintage composed of wines from the vintage Champagnes and the single vineyard Champagnes, it was eye-opening to taste the elements that go into the wine that is most cherished at Krug – not the vintage, not the single-vineyard, but the Grande Cuvee, an assemblage composed of over 50 different wines comprising several vintages and years of ageing, not to mention ageing potential. Later that night, we were treated to a Moroccan trio of tangines paired with Krug and, finally, a stone-fruit dessert served with Krug Collection 1982.

In less than two days, we were already truly exposed to the reason Champagne is so expensive and rare – and why it is one of the most wonderful things humans have ever produced.

Our whirlwind tour began in Paris, where we were greeted at Charles De Gaulle by a very organized woman who whisked us through the airport to our car in record time. Waiting in a customs line was apparently not on our itinerary. We were promptly deposited at the Royal Hotel off of the Champs-Élysées, the first and last hotel of our visit. After depositing my bags in the room and a brief nap, I joined one of my colleagues for a trip to the Louvre. Since we only had an hour to tour the main exhibits before the museum closed for the night, we mapped out our top choices, which included the Mona Lisa, Venus de Milo and Egyptian wine amphorae, and got straight to business. After the museum closed, we sauntered through the Sainte Russe exhibit, featuring ornate Russian religious art dating from the 9th to 18th centuries. We returned to freshen up for dinner at La Villa, where we enjoyed our first meal as a group, beginning and ending the night with Champagne and cocktails in the Piano Bar.

Monday truly set the stage for the rest of the week’s adventure. Meeting in front of the hotel at 7:30am, we were bussed to Epernay to begin our tour of Moët & Chandon. After a visit to the main visitor’s area, we were led through a portion of the maison’s 18 miles of underground caves – to say that they were impressive would not betray the full experience of seeing so many bottles of Champagne ageing in one place. Our tour of the caves was followed by a tasting of the current vintages and non-vintages of the house with the lead winemaker Benoit Gouez. A trip to the gardens and lunch at Trianon, a favorite haunt of Napoleon in Jean-Rémy’s day, completed our visit to Moët & Chandon. Lunch was expertly prepared by the maison’s Executive Chef de Cuisine and served with white-gloves by the incredibly attentive waitstaff. While the entire meal was delicious, the most memorable course was our first, a pot of scallops and lobster served in creme anglaise. It was truly decadent, particularly when paired with an amazing Grand Vintages from the cellars and the sight of a light spring storm.

After lunch, we were spirited off to the abbey of Hautvillers to see the birthplace of Champagne and the graves of two notable monks: Dom Pierre Pérignon and Dom Thierry Ruinart. The abbey was beautiful and serene in its simplicity, surrounded by wonderful views of Epernay and other small neighboring towns, as well as a great number of vineyards dedicated to making grapes for Champagne. Some of the notable sights included centuries-old winepress, a small shepherd’s wagon and a demonstration garden showcasing how vines were planted in Dom Pérignon’s time. Our visit was concluded with a tasting of the current vintages of Blanc and Rosé – a delightful treat at the end of our day.

After a brief bus ride back to Epernay, we were set loose to enjoy an hour in the city before dinner at Bistro le 7 in Les Berceaux, our home for the night. Sitting in a nearby pub, I enjoyed a nice French amber and took in the sight of locals enjoying drinks and conversation. After a dinner of local white asparagus, carpaccio of veal with tuna sauce and grilled sea bass served with Ruinart Blanc de Blancs and Chateau La Nerthe Chateauneuf du Pape, I retired happily to my room to rest up for our trip to Reims the next day.

From Santa Barbara to Long Beach, Huntington Beach and, finally, San Diego – Jeremy, Ollie and I have had the great fortune to live in some of the most beautiful and interesting places along the California coast. Santa Barbara, with its outdoorsy attitude – hiking and biking and surfing, combined with some great al fresco shopping and dining. Not to mention the beautiful mission inspired architecture and gardens.  The Long Beach jetties, its Belmont Shore and easy access to Los Angeles, the city of the stars. Huntington Beach surfers catching waves by the pier, my favorite yoga studio ever and some of the most beautiful sunshiney days of my life. And San Diego. Warm ocean waters, 70 degree weather for most of the year, my first CSA and my first anniversary. I joked that I was migrating south until last year right about this time. Then we moved to the north side of our apartment building and I quipped that it was a sign we were moving back north.

So now here it is, a year later. And we are moving north to San Francisco. Life on the best coast continues in a new city, with slightly different weather and a radically different mindset. I am going home – a place I have not lived for a very long time.  A home that holds many new adventures in its hands, waiting for us to come and accept them. I will definitely miss the laid back lifestyle of Southern California and I may very well wax nostalgic about living here when I am walking through chilly, foggy streets in mid-July, but I can honestly say that this move is one of the most exciting of my life and I have no regrets. Not for a minute.

The year was off to a hopeful start, in my mind, yet we were weighed down with difficulties. We opened 2009 with a Democrat majority in our government for the first time since Bill Clinton’s first term in office. Our country inaugurated an African-American man as the President of the United States for the first time in history. We struggled domestically with what is often referred to now as the Great Recession, domestic spending was cut across the country as many states faced Bankruptcy and the drain on our resources caused by loss of tax revenue, two wars abroad in Afghanistan and Iraq and an increasing national deficit. Millions of Americans faced job losses, home foreclosures and a bleak outlook on the future recovery. Sadly, we also lost a great leader and supporter of progressive causes – Senator Edward Kennedy.

Still, there were also hopeful moments. We have moved further toward green and eco-friendly practices as a country. More and more people are shopping locally and eating local, sustainable and organic foods. The House passed a preliminary Health Care bill with the hopes that we can overhaul our health care system and provide insurance to those Americans that are un- or underinsured. Our economy, too, showed signs of recovery as we ended the year, providing some hope for 2010.

Personally, the year was full of intellectual and spiritual growth, visits with friends and family and work, work, work. From rekindling my love of books to planting a garden and joining a CSA (Community Supported Agriculture), I found a deeply renewed love and respect for our planet and the many creative people who inhabit it. I traveled up and down the coast, reminding myself of the great beauty of the state I am fortunate enough to live in, meeting siblings, friends, and attending the wedding of two fabulous people who are so perfect for each other. And I worked. A lot.

All in all, the end of the decade was what most years are: a mix of frustration, joy, growth, loss, fear, renewal, fun and hope for another, even better tomorrow. I believe that 2010 will bring the Spring that we crave after the Winter of 2009. As Jeremy says, “These are the good old days,” and I believe him.

Because Jen had never spent time in the city, we took in the sights – a cable car ride to Fisherman’s Wharf, cioppino at Scoma’s, Farmer’s Market at the Ferry building, cocktails at Alembic in the Haight – it was most definitely a whirlwind trip.

One of the perks of going home is seeing my pals and my little brother and sister. Jen K. came in Friday night to chill at the Bubble Lounge before heading out to North Beach for cocktails. We ended up at Foley’s, capping the night off with an 80s cover band and dancing.

The next day was just as adventure filled, with Lorin and Brendan coming in to join the party and Rob and Danny following suit. After a horrible Mediterranean dinner, we hopped in a cab to Circa. Not fully digging the scene, we again ended up at an Irish pub, played pool until last call and headed back to the room for after party. As you can see below, after we emptied the mini-bar, the shenanigans were underway.

Our last day in SF was no less eventful. We wished we were staying longer, but headed back to San Diego knowing we would be returning soon.

Alas, Labor Day had not yet passed. Ryan and Gabriella were in when I returned, so we spent the next two days sunning and swimming. I am looking forward to next Labor Day weekend – always a good weekend for play…

Getting out and about was definitely the theme of the season and I was able to enjoy many wonderful hikes through the multitude of parks we have here. One of the most beautiful places to get your fill of the outdoors is Cabrillo National Monument. The bluffs and tidepools are amazing – wildlife abounds, the air is fresh and clean, and the sound of the waves crashing against the cliffs is so calming.

One of the last outings of Summer was a trip to Santa Barbara for Veuve Clicquot Polo. We had a great group to share the day with, a limo to take us to and fro while sharing some great bottles of Champagne. Definitely an experience to remember!

And with that, we move on to the next phase of the year – a bit less sun, a quieter, slower pace, and the holidays right around the corner. Fortunately, we had such a great time while it lasted that we are not lamenting the change, but looking forward to the next season and more good times ahead…

I wish I had pics of the bbq to share (especially the piggy guy wearing a Miller Lite tee who had a staring problem), but I was too busy with my baby backs, beefies and corn-on-the-cob to bother. Thank you, Phil. Luckily, I do have shots of some of the other great intros into summer.

Ollie took a desperately needed rest from protecting my tomatoes – it’s a hot and sweaty job, but he not only got to cuddle with some sexy pillows, he enjoyed a professional massage, as well.

Look at those tomatoes! And a jalapeno. All from my garden. What a beautiful sight – we will be enjoying them in a fresh pico de gallo with our carne asada and poblano tacos tonight.

Another great addition to summer is the new Belvedere Black Raspberry. Yum! A fabulous concoction of real raspberries, black currants and rose water – it makes an amazingly elevated cocktail…

Here is a pic of Dante serving the great Black Raspberry Julep at the Windsor Lawn in front of 1500 Ocean at the Hotel Del Coronado. It was a fabulous Farmer’s Market Dinner, part of the sustainability series at 1500 Ocean. What a beautiful place to promote fresh cocktails and saving the planet at the same time! Another long, hard day at work…

Thanks to Ollie’s complete dedication to watching over our little patio, I am excited to report that my tomatoes are progressing splendidly. The two plants above are my Early Girl and Better Boy, with the Roma hiding in the wings, waiting for her time – Roma tomatoes tend to bud a bit later than the other plants I chose. Our Celebrity is also expecting, but not quite as far along as the other two.

We ate the first two Early Girls, along with a jalapeno from the garden and avocados from Be Wise Ranch (our CSA), in a homemade guacamole over 4th of July weekend. I apologize heartily for the lack of pictures, but we ate it too fast!

I am looking forward to a bumper crop over the next few weeks and am looking for suggestions on the best recipes for fresh summer tomatoes – whoever sends me the winning recipes will have the pics posted on Sun & Bubbles, so send ‘em in!

What you see in the above pics is the room at Luxe on Rodeo Drive (small, but comfy and totally adequate) and my gals enjoying a few happy hour martinis prior to heading out to the Roosevelt for a night of hilarious and memorable fun.

Once hitting the Roosevelt, we sauntered over to the Tropicana Bar for some cocktails and to meet a new friend (Hi, Elisa!). My fave rum drink, the 10 Cane Ginger Smash, was on the menu, so I decided to quench my thirst with it’s yumminess. We hung out for a bit and then headed on to Dakota for dinner. Sarah (the bride-to-be) had to send back half of the the 3 star foie gras (half was super delish and half was burnt, thus the 3 star rating), for but everything else was fabulous, including the guy at the bar who was with (and I quote) “not [his] wife … but [his] first choice – she said no.”

Before heading back to the Tropicana Bar, we had a few drinks at the ever-popular Teddy’s. Unless I somehow pull a Benjamin Button, I will not be returning by choice. The crowd was younger than my playmates for the night (both in their mid-20s), thus encouraging stares and comments such as “I wonder what that old chick is doing here?” So, after a few Belvedere Black Raspberries and sodas, we headed back to where the wild things were – at the Trop.

People jumping in the pool, Champagne on the patio, security tossing people out left and right and – what? – Sonia doing her best Hugh Hefner impression poolside at the Roosevelt?! Oh yes, she was sporting the robe, pockets in hand, nonchalant, and cracking us up with her one-liners. It was a night I will never forget.

Two more weeks, Sarah! I can’t wait… and neither can Neil – look at that smile!

After a really great boot camp session a few weekends ago, Jeremy & I decided Sunday would be a good day to go hiking. We headed out to Mission Trails Regional Park – about 15 minutes from Little Italy – and set out on our adventure.

It was another beautiful day in San Diego. Nice breezes and warm sun. Fortunately, because of the morning cloud cover, the park was not too crowded. Needless to say, the sign cautioning us about Mountain Lions was a tad bit disturbing – especially after reading that staying still and standing tall does not, in fact, protect people from attacks.

Despite my dislike of potential harm-inducing incidents involving wild cats (or any other predatory creature), we meandered around for about 2 hours and decided to head back to the car to grab some much-needed lunch. All in all, it was a great mini-trip in San Diego and I would recommend checking it out – as long as you are okay with the fact that you might become cat nip…

After a great weekend with Liz (thanks for coming down!), I decided to spend a little time hanging out on the patio with my plants. As you can see, they are growing and looking fabulous. I am so excited, I am almost tempted to pick the tomatoes green!

Alas, I will wait, but I am at least able to pick some cilantro, jalapenos and basil in the meantime. Tonight we will have some steak tacos with fresh cilantro and I will work in my other crops later in the week. Hopefully I will be posting pics of my salsa very soon, though!

You might hear me talking a lot lately about CSAs. That’s because they are amazing!

I just joined Be Wise Ranch about a month ago and could not be happier. Fresh, local, organic produce that is inexpensive and delicious? I’ll take it!

Here is a brief list of some of the great fruits and vegetables we have gotten in recent weeks:
Rainbow Chard, Kale, Bok Choy, Mixed Baby Greens, Strawberries, Cantaloupes, Galia Melons, Fennel, Leeks, Asparagus, Zucchini, Blueberries, Grapefruit, Oranges, Radishes, and more…

We now have four tomato plants with over 30 little tomatoes, as well as some jalapenos, cilantro, basil and mint. Can’t wait to make some salsa!